[1]
Although secret identities and elaborate
disguises are typically associated with the world of spies
and villains, it has other uses. For six years Ruth
1
Reichl the restaurant critic for The New York Times, used
2
aliases and costumes as a regular part of her job.
[2]
Dining is big business in New York City, from
the neighborhood noodle shops and diners to the upscale
steak houses and four-star French restaurants. [#3] Many
of the more than one million people who read The Times
each day look to it for advice on where to eat. A positive
4
review from The Times could have brought a restaurant
5
unimagined success and month-long waiting lists for
reservations. A negative review, on the other hand, can
undermine a restaurant’s popularity and seriously cut
into its profits. Obviously, restaurant owners and
6
workers have a lot at stake when the restaurant critic for
6
The Times walks in the door. Waiters and chefs often
pull out all of the stops to impress the writer that the
7
meal can make or break a restaurant.
[3]
Reichl was acutely aware that she received
8
special treatment once restaurant staff recognized her.
8
She would be graciously greeted and led to the best table
in the restaurant, offered dishes prepared specially by the
head chef, and given multiple courses of amazing
desserts. In other words, the dining experience of the
restaurant critic was nothing like that of the commonly
9
ordinary person walking in from the street.
9 [4]
To remedy this, Reichl decided a solution would
10
be to become, for short periods of time, someone else.
10
Transforming herself into different personas, Reichl
11
used wigs, special makeup, and carefully selected
11
clothing, such as an attractive blonde named Chloe, a
11
redhead named Brenda, and an older woman named
Betty. [#12]
[5]
Sometimes, Reichl developed a different view
about the quality when she was not treated like a very
important person of a restaurant. Indeed, the difference
13
between the treatment she received as herself and as one
of her characters was occasionally so great that Reichl
would revise her initial impression of a restaurant and
write a more negative review. [#14]
[6]
By becoming an average customer, Reichl
encouraged even the most expensive and popular
restaurants to improve how they treated all of their
customers. After all, waiters could never be certain when
they were serving the powerful restaurant critic for The
New York Times.
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